I have long been a backpacker who is in love with Big Bend National Park. Dr. Ed McGuire introduced me to the Park in the mid 80's and we have been back many times. I originally began this blog as a prelude for my first backpacking trip with my son and nephew. We returned in January from a shortened but successful trip and now the planning and training begin again.
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Friday, December 31, 2010
Get Away Day
Thursday, December 30, 2010
My log book of my first trip to Big Bend
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Future Big Bender during Christmas
I thought I would post a few photos of my future hiking partner to Big Bend. Of course, I am being optimistic about my abilities to continue to backpack and as Les Miles would say "His having the wont to go". But as the old saying goes, Hope springs eternal.
Jack Wesley Keith is now 19 months old and these are pictures with Pam's granddaughter Samantha (Sam) and Holly's daughter Evie. They are both about 6 months older than Jack Wesley but I hear he likes older women.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Finally!! After 63 years.....
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Heaux, Heaux, Heaux
A Facebook friend of mine greeted me this way yesterday and I thought it was unique, so I borrowed it. I hope each and everyone of you have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. This time next week I will be somewhere in southeast Texas heading along I-10 to Fort Stockton, Texas to spend the night before the last push into Big Bend National Park.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Eight Days and a Wake Up
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Single Digit Midget
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Fifteen Days and a wake up
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Odds and Ends
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Remembering My First Trip to Big Bend-Part 2
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Remembering My First Trip to Big Bend
As I was preparing to take my first trip to Big Bend National Park in 1984, I was trying to visualize the park in my mind. I always envisioned Texas as rolling pine hills in the east followed by the desolate mesa area of west Texas. I was not aware that mountains even existed in Texas. I had seen some pictures taken by my friend Ed but these did not really prepare me for what I was to find.
On the initial trip to the park, Ed, his son Lane and I left early on the first Saturday of the new year for the 14 hour drive into Big Bend. We were in Ed’s Chevrolet pickup truck with all three of us crowded into the front seat. I remember being very apprehensive about this adventure. I had not backpacked since my days as a Boy Scout and I was not in great physical shape.
We arrived in Big Bend around 8:30 pm. It was a very dark and cold night when we stopped at Panther Junction Ranger Station for a bathroom break and a quick pay phone call to let everyone know that we had arrived. The most amazing sight was directly overhead. I had never seen so many stars in all my life. I was a real novice as to star constellations but as Ed began to point out the different collections I was totally awed. Until one has seen the sky in the absence of light it is hard to describe. The Milky Way on a moonless night in the vast Chihuahuan Desert of Big Bend is a must see.
We proceeded to a spot in the desert along Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway where our hiking trail will near the road. We hiked a short distance into the desert and hid 3 gallons of water to resupply as we work our way through the trip. My apprehension level continued to escalate as this exercise left me breathing very hard as we climbed back up the hill back to the truck.
Since it was very dark I had no real feeling as to my surroundings. At night, the mountains surrounding me took little form and had no reference as to their height. We continued on to the Chisos Mountain into what is known as the Basin, a bowl seemingly carved out of the mountains where the park lodge, store and campgrounds are. After a short night’s sleep in the back of the truck, I awoke to see what this place really looked like.
As the dawn began to break, I was stunned by the enormity of the Chisos Mountains. All the features seemed to be super-sized. The landmarks I had read about-Casa Grande, Lost Mine Peak, the South Rim- all were much larger than I had imagined. The Chisos was much greener and lusher in vegetation. I remember thinking “Is this really a desert?” I was to later learn that there was plenty of desert for me to see.
After getting our gear situated and back in the truck, we headed back to Panther Junction to get our backcountry permit and head to the trailhead. I was not prepared for the absolute enormity of the park. The drive from Panther Junction to Elephant Tusk Trailhead, our starting point, was well over an hour of some of the worst 4 wheel drive roads I have ever been on. It was not the muddy Louisiana swamp roads but rocky, rutty, wash-board, dusty desert roads that will rattle your teeth.
We finally arrived at our trailhead in the middle of nowhere. Actually we were at the Elephant Tusk Trailhead off of Black Gap Road looking north into the Chisos Mountains. The elevation was probably around 2000 feet and the Chisos were two and a half days and 5800 feet in elevation away. I could now since the wildness of this place. For all the beauty around me, I also knew that one must respect Big Bend for what it is-an inhospitable, uncompromising environment that must be taken seriously.
To Be Continued…..
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Dark Desert Highway
- December 31-Leave Birmingham around 9 am to travel to Baton Rouge, Louisiana
- Spend the night at Mother's
- January 1-Leave Baton Rouge no later than 6 am to head to Big Bend National Park
- Arrive Fort Stockton, Texas early in the evening
- Eat dinner and stay at a cheap motel in Fort Stockton
- January 2-Leave Ft. Stockton no later than 6 am
- Arrive Panther Junction Park Headquarters by 8:30 am
- Get back-country permit
- Make water cache at Homer Wilson Ranch House on Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway
- Drive to the Chisos Basin, have lunch and prepare to begin the trip
- Hike up Pinnacles Trail into the Chisos. This will be a 5 mile hike gaining 1700 feet in elevation
- Take Boot Canyon Trail to the Southeast Rim Trail and find designated campsite
- January 3-Break camp and hike up to Emory Peak the last part being a rock scramble and great photo op of the desert looking over the Rio Grande into Mexico
- Explore the Chisos before working our way over to Boot Canyon campsite for the evening
- January 4-Head down Juniper Canyon Trail to the Dodson Trailhead. This will be about a 6.2 mile hike downhill.
- Eat lunch at the trailhead and then hike over to the Dodson Ranch House to set up camp
- January 5-Break camp and hike to Fresno Creek to find water. Hike over to Homer Wilson Ranch House and get water cache for the next day. Make camp in the Red Rock area of Blue Creek Canyon Trail.
- January 6-Hike up Blue Creek Canyon Trail to the high Chisos. Elevation change on this trail will be about 2000+ feet. Find our campsite in Laguna Meadow and make camp.
- January 7-Break camp and hike back down to the Basin and the truck. Easy downhill 3.5 mile hike.
- Pack up the truck and head out of the park.
- Spend the night somewhere on I-10 to shower and rest up.
- January 8-Arrive in Baton Rouge with time tba
- January 9 or late January 8 head to Birmingham.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
What Every Man Likes to Talk About
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Anticipation
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Toting on the Pinhoti
I met Bradley Jones and Ben Deason at the Pine Glen Campground early on Saturday morning to begin a two day backpack of Section 10 of the Pinhoti trail. This section begins at the campground and travels northeasterly to Burns Trail head near Pinky Burns' cabin. The total distance is approximately 16.5 miles and is considered moderately difficult.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
New Ground to Break`
Monday, November 1, 2010
The Road Takes a Short Detour
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
And Down the Stretch We Come
Saturday, October 9, 2010
A Break From the Routine
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Wild South
In a grant proposal submitted to NFF earlier this year, Wild South proposed to conduct a walking survey of all marked and maintained trails and year-round streams in the Sipsey Wilderness and record all NNIPS populations within a reasonably observable corridor. The grant was awarded, and since early May, Wild South staff members, interns and volunteers have been walking the trails and streams, collecting data with handheld GPS units, cameras, voice recorders and field survey forms. All data is collected and digitized according to the USFS’s Data Recording Protocols for Invasive Species Management and stored in the Terra module of the National Resource Information Systems (NRIS) database.
Trails, stream corridors and old roadbeds are some of the common entry points and conduits for the spread of NNIPS, so it is no surprise that our inventory so far has shown the most diverse and numerous NNIPS populations occurring along the major waterways and trails that follow historical roads. For example, Nepalese browntop (Microstegium vimineum) occurs in an almost unbroken strip along the banks of Sipsey Fork itself, as well as along Wilderness Trail 208, which follows the Old Northwest Road.
As noted in the article, they all had GPS's hanging around their necks. I asked them about the reception from the sats in the canyons and they thought the Garmin's did a great job. They thought they were getting down to about 20 feet. They also told me about a shortcut to the Big Tree through White Oak Hollow which I need to find on another trip.
What a beautiful weekend up in the Sipsey Wilderness. There was not a cloud in the sky and very low humidity. Curbie and I arrived Friday afternoon at the Thompson Creek Trail head with no other vehicles there except a group readying their horses for a trip to Breazelle. After getting my boots on and loading the pack we headed out for your adventure.
We spent the next 3 hours hiking the six miles to the campsite at the intersection of East Bee Trail and the Sipsey River Trail. As we were hiking along the Sipsey River I noticed Curbie stopping and trying to see something. Since I could not see anything I hurried her along. We then came around a big tree and in the bushes was a man looking right at me. I admit that I was startled but I tried not to show it. It turned out that he was with Wild South surveying all the plants in the Sipsey Wilderness. He asked me if I had seen his other two partners down the trail. Curbie could smell them but I never saw them. I need to pay closer attention to her. They told me that I could go see some of their work at www.wildsouth.org.
After that we had an uneventful walk to the campsite. What a beautiful area of the Wilderness. The river just below the campsite is filled with boulders and there is a small little drop in the riverbed that makes for the serene sound of gurgling water the entire time you are there. Some boulders were at the end of a small path to the river which made for a great view in both directions. Sitting on the boulders filtering water was a very nice experience.
I got camp set up as soon as we got there. My Marmot tent is always easy to set up especially with the ground being so soft. I set up the hammock, fixed a run rope for Curbie and then got the cook stove and other gear ready. Then it was just time to sit back, relax, but your worries aside and enjoy the surroundings.
The night would up being nice and cool but not as cold as I thought. I was expecting temperatures in the mid-40’s but I do not think it got that cold. Once it got dark Curbie would not leave my side. I think she was missing the other dogs. She spent the night in the tent sleeping at my feet. I got up at around 4 to make some coffee and everytime I turned on my flashlight she came out of the tent. As soon as I would turn off my flashlight she would get back into the tent. I have no clue what that was all about.
After breaking camp the next morning we headed up East Bee Branch headed to the Big Tree. The Big Tree is thought to be the largest Poplar in the State of Alabama and sits in a beautiful canyon with a beautiful waterfall when there is water. It is very dry in Alabama (could not make a fire in the Sipsey which was a bummer) so I knew the falls would not be there. What I was not prepared for was the amount of dead fall in the trail to the Big Tree. All of this dead fall was an aftermath of Hurricane Ivan a few years ago. For an old man with a backpack on this was tough trucking. I am not the most graceful person in the world but going over and under fallen trees was very taxing. Since I was going to out and back the trail I was having to do it twice. The tree was a large tree and the canyon quite nice and peaceful. I would love to spend some time there during the rainy season.
We got back to the truck around 1:30 and I was very tired. That was 9 miles of hiking today with some of it being in rough terrain and a 35 pound pack on my back. I made a decision in embrace light-weight packing from now on. I need to reduce my backpack weight by at least 10 pounds. I can still carry the weight but sometimes it is not as enjoyable when your knees and hips are killing you.
It was a great trip and the good news was that the bugger bear did not get me.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
"One is the loneliest number"
We will probably hike 15 to 20 miles over the weekend but the weather is going to be nice and cool so that should not be a problem. I have packed and repacked my backback about 4 times now removing gear each time. I am carrying more weight than I need but I want to work on my gear so I am bringing some extra things.
I will post a trip report on Sunday if the bugger bear did not get me.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
What is the shelf life of a honey-do?
I am in the early planning stages of taking a weekend trip up to Mt. Cheaha and doing the Pinhoti, Chinnabee and Skyline trail loop over 2 or 3 days. My guess is that 2 days will be sufficient but I will leave room in case Curbie and I want to take our time. The trip will be in late October after we spend a little time at the beach. I am really excited about the possibilities. Normally when I go out for an extended trip it is with another person but his time it will be just Curbie and I. Curbie has not spent the night out on the trail before so this could be interesting. Right now my plan for her will be a lead rope out of paracord or some sort of run on the paracord. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
I will begin my trip at the Adams Gap Trailhead taking the Pinhoti trail to the intersection of the Chinnabee Silent Trail. I will hike over to the shelter on the Chinnabee Trail above the falls and spend the night. If that is taken I will go back down the trail to the falls and use one of the large campsites there. The next day I will go over to the Skyline Trail and head back to the Adams Gap Trailhead. If I do not make it all the way then I will just do a stealth camp and come out the next morning. I do not think I will have any problems going all the way the second day but if not no problem.
This will give me a chance to try out my water filter in some of the available creeks in that area. It is nice not having to carry so much water like I do in Big Bend. At over 8 pounds per gallon water is one heavy load. Having to only carry my 2 liter dromedary bag makes life a lot easier on a then 63 year old body. My workout routine has certainly paid dividends in the cardio fitness area. I still huff and puff some on the longer uphill but the recovery time has been excellent. I do have to make sure that I am hydrating enough though. I have a bad habit of drinking only when I am thirsty which is not recommended. I need to drink regularly and not get behind the curve.
I will try and be a dutiful photographer on the trip so that I can post on my humble blog. Sometimes I get to having too much fun or engrossed in the scenery that I forget to memorialize the moment. I will try to do better.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
The Hole in the Wall Gang
As soon as I opened the back hatch Curbie was in and taking her place in the back seat ready to go. I told her that I was not ready yet but she was not going to be left behind. After pulling together and packing all my gear plus an ice chest for when I got back to the truck we were ready to go. After a short stop at the local service station for coffee we got on I65 sometime around 4 am.
We connected to Corridor X and up to Jasper, then over to Double Springs and finally arrived at the Sipsey River Picnic Area much too early. I had never been to this trailhead before so I did not know what to expect. It was still very dark so I took my time getting things ready to go. But the wonder dog was ready to go so I said okay. Using my flashlight periodically to get over some rooty areas we were gone. We were on the Borden Creek Trail (200) heading to the Sipsey River Trail (209). I was not prepared for all the people that were camping in the area. Even some boy scouts were there with tents actually pitched on the trail. (Scout leaders; please make your scouts pitch their tents off the trail. People actually do hike at night). I knew after a while that I had missed the turnoff to the Sipsey River Trail. So I thought I would hike the length of the Borden Creek Trail and catch the Sipsey River Trail on the return.
I am certainly glad that I made that decision. The Borden Creek Trail is a beautiful trail with many rock formations and cliff walls. You can stay down by the creek or you can hike up near the cliffs. What a great place to be. I now know why this area has so many people. It is very accessible and the trail is not hard to hike. Once I reached the Hole in The Wall near the terminus of the trail I took a little break and headed back to find the 209 Trail marker. In order to avoid some tents near the trail I hiked up close to the cliffs only to hear “Get away from me dog, I am trying to use the bathroom!!” I was laughing to myself as Curbie was licking the less that fully clothed man in the bushes.
A short time later we ran into a couple with a pit bull that Curbie fell in love with. They would meet again on the trail several hours later and play and play. The couple was really nice and was like me in that they had missed the trail marker last night when they hiked in. I parted to continue my journey. Eventually I found the trail marker in the daylight. A camper had hung all their gear over the trail marker making it impossible to see in the dark. I do not understand how people can be so idiotic.
The rest of the day was spent hiking on the 209 down to Trail 202. Once there I took a little lunch and water break and Curbie went for a swim. I ran back into the Scout Troop again. They had broken their group into two parts. The older boys were in the lead group and the younger boys were in the trailing group. As an old Eagle Scout with Troop 32 in Monroe, Louisiana I always have a soft place in my heart for scouting and the adults who lead them. If I was more industrious I think I would get involved with a troop in some way. Some of the happiest days in my life were in scouting. Orrie White and Sam Walker were my scoutmasters and they took us camping most weekends. What a great time in my life.
When we got back to the truck in the middle of the afternoon we had walked about 18 miles and my feet and knees were a little sore. We got home took a shower and rooted LSU to victory against Mississippi State.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
News Bulletin on the Walls of Jericho
The Sims, Swaim and Johnson addition will be used for public recreation and conservation efforts, and will increase public access to the popular Walls of Jericho trail system located near the communities of Skyline and Hytop. State lands managers have documented more than 15,000 hiking and horse trail users annually on the growing trail system. New land acquisitions such as this ensure the public's access to the property and enhance the quality of life that state lands afford Alabamians.
Considered one of the most biologically diverse and important regions in the United States, the Walls of Jericho Tract supports several species of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles, amphibians and plants recognized under the Alabama Comprehensive Wildlife Conservation Strategy as species of highest conservation concern. As part of the Paint Rock River watershed, this area contains several springs and more than 3,000 feet of perennial stream habitat along Estill Fork Creek. The habitats within and along the Estill Fork waterway support some of the last remaining populations of several species of fish and mussels protected under the federal Endangered Species Act."
The preceding was a release from the Alabama Forever Wild program. My only concern here is that the more people that come to this area the more ecological damage that can be done. Of course, I am being selfish.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
The Walls of Jericho
Curbie and I left the house this morning at 3:30 am for the 2.5 hour trip to the Walls of Jericho. The area is just a few miles north of HiTop, Alabama which is just north of Skyline, Alabama on Alabama Highway 79. To put this in better context this area is about 25 miles north of Scottsboro and just a few miles south of the Tennessee border. In other words, it is in the middle of nowhere.
We hiked the 3 miles down to the Walls of Jericho in a couple of hours. The hike was all down hill and not that tough except for a few rocky places. Curbie decided to chase after a coyote but fortunately she came back to my whistle. If I lost Curbie on the trail I do not think Karen would let me back in the house.
There was not much water flowing at the falls but the scenery was exceptional. One deep pool below one of the falls was deep enough to swim in and the water was very cold. What was evident is that when the water is flowing in the creeks during the wet season this place will be spectacular. The Walls of Jericho is actually more of a box canyon with streams coming in from several directions. Rocks abound and look like the steps up to a monument.
It is becoming a very popular area as several groups arrived while I was there. Most of the people were coming down to swim in the swimming hole. One group was rappelling and climbing some of the rock outcroppings. Another group had their young sons on an overnight trip. As I was hiking out I passed 5 more groups coming in.
I photographed for about an hour until the light was used up. This is the first landscape photography I have done since Big Bend National Park and I found myself a little rusty. I have attached some photos to this page for your review.
I hiked out which was 3 miles of total uphill during the heat of the day. I was glad to see the truck at the parking lot and so was Curbie. We had a lot of fun, stayed healthy and took some decent photos.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
And the walls came tumbling down
Curbie and I will drive up there on Saturday morning and hike the 2.5 miles down the canyon for a morning of photography. I am going to put on my photography backpack complete with camera, lenses and tripod along with a daypack for water and a late breakfast. I hope that there is waterflow in the falls but if not I will know what to expect for a follow-up trip in the rainy season.
Curbie kept trying to understand why I did not take her anywhere this last weekend. I think she knows what day of the week it is and I hurt her feelings. I will make up for it on Saturday. I hope to come back with some decent pictures and if so will post them on this site.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Home on the Range
I was sitting at the computer this morning surfing the web looking for interesting things to read or view. I always like to see how other people do things hoping that I might improve the way I do things. I also confess to being one of the worlds worst gear heads. The internet proves that I am not alone in this affliction. Most of the backpacking forums have a section specifically for gear. So I thought in the oft chance that someone might actually read this blog other than me and a couple of my close friends and family, I would provide a list of the gear that I use to pack with.
I know that this seems self-indulgent and it is. But of course keeping a backpacking blog may be the ultimate in self-indulgence. However, if this helps someone better understand the sport or creates discussion then it was worth it.
So below is a listing of most of the gear that I will be using in Big Bend in January. Packpack Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Ultralight
Sleeping Bag Marmot Down Mummy Bag 25 degrees
Tent Marmot 1 man backpacking tent with fly (freestanding)
Sleeping Pad Thermarest mini self inflate (25 years old)
Stove MSR Whisperlite
Hydration MSR Dromedary Bag (2 Liter)
Hydration 4 Nalgene bottles (1 Liter)
Water Filter MSR mini works
Illumination Princeton headlamp
Minimag flashlight
Orienteering U. S. Army lensatic compass
Silva Clear plastic compass for map work
Cold Weather clothing Cabellas Down Parka (25 years old and stuffable)
North Face polar fleece stocking cap
Columbia Fleece pullover
Capalene thermal tops and bottoms
Magellan long sleeve simplex shirt
Magellan zip out legs cargo pants
Smart Wool hiking socks
North Face ski gloves
Hat Bandana
Tilley ventilated hat
Raingear North Face rain pants
Magellan poncho
Boots Merrill Moab mid-length hiking boots
First Aid MSR first aid kit (25 years old)
Cooking MSR cook kit (25 years old)
Food Backpacker Pantry
Utensils Lexan Spoon
Lexan measuring cup to also be used as drinking cup
Miscellaneous Granite gear stuff sacks (4)
Tent, sleeping pad and backpacking repair kit
Nikon Travelite binoculars
Emergency whistle with small compass and thermometer
Maps
Garbage bag (take out trash and can be used as pack cover)
Swiss Army knife (subscription gift for Outside magazine years ago)
Towettes individually wrapped
Pillow case (stuff parka into for sleeping)
Plastic entrenching tool
Ziploc bags (1 gallon size)
Moleskin for blister prevention
Sunscreen
Earl Grey Tea
Equal (cant leave home without it)
Trail mix (with M & M’s)
One large Hershey bar (to get up the last of that mountain)
Fig Newtons
Melba toast (whole wheat)
Saturday, August 14, 2010
"Sipsey di do dah"
Curbie the wonder dog and I got up early Saturday morning and drove up to the Sipsey Wilderness which is north of Double Springs. We took 195North out of Double Springs until we hit County Road 23 at around mile marker 23. We turned left and went down a couple of gravel Forest Service roads until it deadended at the Thompson Trail Head.
It was very humid and damp on the trail in that it rained the night before. It was not long until I was soaking wet. The trail was beautiful with some great Hemlock trees and moss covered rocks. The trail eventually came to to the Sipsey River and all its cascades and huge rocks in and around the river. Curbie had a lot of fun smimming in the river and then rolling in the sand bars by the shore.
We continued on till we met the Sipsey River Trail as it came across the river. We hike for another 2 miles to a huge campsite on the Sipsey River. Just up from that campsite was the trail head for the Bee Branch Trail.
We began to head back to the truck at this point. We had already hiked about 6 miles and needed to get back before the bad weather started. As we were coming back it began to thunder which makes Curbie crazy. She went from running and sniffing everything on the trail to almost getting between my legs. She was glad to see the truck to seek safe haven from the thunder.
We had a good time, saw some interesting topography and certainly burned a lot of calories. I look forward to going back again but I will wait until it gets a little cooler.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Tallulah "Bankhead" and "Sipsey" Rose Lee
I acquired a very good map of the area from CartoCraft on Tyler Road in Birmingham. The trails seem to be laid out very well on the map along with other points of interest. If the tropical weather system that is supposed to be in the gulf around the weekend does not interfere, Curbie and I will go up there and look around. I want to do some hiking and exploring some of the trail heads and just get a feel for the country. When you get a chance to put boots on the ground in an area you have never seen before then it is not as intimidating for a solo hiker.
I am becoming more and more comfortable with hiking by myself (at least as far as human company is concerned). The hardest part is just getting out the door and trying the adventure. The more times you do this the more comfortable you get. I am old enough and experienced enough not to get crazy and I understand the risks. For me it all about slaying the demons of the past.