Chasing Waterfalls in the Bankhead National Forest

I joined a group called meet up and more specifically the Birmingham Hikers Group for a trip up to the Bankhead National Forest and the Sipsey Wilderness.  The group of 25 met at the Cracker Barrel at 7 am for the 90 minute drive up to Double Springs, Alabama and then on to the Sipsey River Recreation Area parking lot to begin our exploring.  Jay Hudson, a delightful school teacher in the Hoover system, was our leader.  Jay would show a lot of patience during the day and always had a smile on his face.

We started our trek going up Turkey Foot Creek to see the upper and lower Turkey Foot falls.  This was a fairly easy walk of about a mile down Turkey Foot Creek.  I guess I should have noted earlier that it was snowing when we arrived and the temperature was 34 degrees.  Even though the snow stopped soon after we began the temperature never got above 36 degrees all day.  There had been a lot of rain over the last week or
so and the creeks were running full.  This is always good for waterfalls.

I am going to apologize for the quality of the pictures from the trip in that my battery was already running low when we got there (forgot to recharge before I left) and I have not taken the time yet to get into the owners manual on my Olympus 8010.  The above picture is the first of the two Turkey Foot Creek waterfalls that we saw early in the morning.  There were a couple of really nice campsites at the falls which I made a mental note of.

The second of the two falls is shown above but I really do not like the picture.  My carpooling friend Ken Little has made better pictures which I will add to this blog later.  We hiked back out to the cars, loaded up into fewer vehicles and headed to Kinlock Falls and then on to Caney Creek Falls in the Bankhead National Forest.  If you have not been to upper Caney Creek Falls then I highly recommend the trip if you are into waterfalls.  It is about a 1.5 mile hike to the falls down an old forest service road (now abandoned and a wide trail) off of Winston Country Road 2.

The water in Caney Creek was running high enough to actually have two waterfalls at Upper Caney Creek Falls.  The pool below the falls was very deep and blue green in color.  You can have a very relaxing day even in the rain at this fall in that the cliffs overhang the area creating a natural amphitheater for having lunch or just hanging out.  We tried finding the lower Caney Creek Falls but after a lot of bushwhacking and some steep mountain sides we called off the search.  My legs really got tired walking along the sides of the ridge lines.

We left this location and when to see soggy-doggy falls on Brushey Creek in the Bankhead.  Jay told us the hike would be a little more than a mile in but in actuality it was 1.75 miles in and of course out.  We did not arrive back to the vehicles until almost dark.  However, this was a visually rewarding hike down Brushey Creek which was running very high.  Small waterfalls dotted the trail and the waterfall at the end was truly outstanding.

I met some very nice people during the excursion as always.  Even though I prefer hiking by myself with Curbie (she did not get to go) it was a nice break to get to interact with people who share the same interest.  Most of the group were in effect day hikers and were not into backpacking but they did share a love for the outdoors.  The trip was great for me in that I now know where these waterfalls are from a logistical standpoint and can come back and enjoy them further.

I really look forward to going back to Caney Creek Falls and soggy doggy.

Out My Back Door

I have lived in my home in Hoover since 2004 and have been oblivious to my surroundings.  Karen and I own a wonderful place in the city of Hoover that has huge boulders and almost two acres of woods right in the city.  I enjoy going on hikes and have traveled great distances just to partake in my hobby. 


 Sometimes you should open your eyes and take notice of the things around you.  Less than a quarter mile away from my home is a new city park called Moss Rock Preserve.  The city of Hoover and a group of volunteers have turned a scope of urban forest into a great place to hike, boulder or just enjoy nature.

Reading the website for the Preserve you find:
A perfect balance of nature and community, Moss Rock Preserve is a beautiful 250 acre nature preserve abundant with trees and plants, rock outcroppings, streams, waterfalls,  wildlife and other unique natural features.  Currently Moss Rock Preserve is home to four rare species of plants and a rare variant of Little River Canyon Sandstone Glade - one of only 35 occurrences known around the world! 


My first trip to the Preserve was this summer on a morning of 90 degrees and 95 percent humidity.  I was utilizing the hike as part of my effort to get in shape.  I was less concerned about my surroundings as I was putting in some miles.  So Curbie, who did not go the first time, and I headed to the Preserve with a little water, some snacks and a camera.  Our goal was to see all there was of the preserve and enjoy what was forecast as a nice warm day.  


The preserve is a mixture of boulders, creeks, rolling hills and a variety of plant life with scattered sightings of birds.  The volunteers have identified many species of trees and marked them with informative signs.  

The Boy Scouts, especially the Eagle Scouts (I am proud to be one), have built bridges and made improvements all over the preserve.  I ran into a group of scouts with a mule setting trail posts while I was there.  I believe they were from Troop 21 in Bluff Park.  

The creeks were running deep and clear allowing Curbie the Wonder Dog to enjoy several swims after running with other dog friends she met along the way.  Since the weather forecast proved correct the late morning brought out a lot of Hooverites and their pets.  

I understand from my nephew Clay that the preserve has become a popular bouldering destination.  While I was there I did not notice the activity other than kids doing what they like best---climbing and screaming.  I guess that if solitude is what you are seeking then you will have to go early because later in the morning the kids are in the preserve having a ball and letting you know it.  Unfortunately, being an urban park the noise of the city can be heard later in the day.  Traffic sounds along with a locomotive were heard.  There are a couple of subdivisions surrounding the park and barking dogs can be a distraction.  


I will enjoy this area of Birmingham more in the future when I do not have a trip planned and just want to get out and enjoy the scenery.   If you live in the area and have not walked the preserve I encourage you to do that.  

I Thought I Would Change Things

I am sitting around the house this Sunday morning still getting acclimated to being back home.  I start back onto the trail on February 5th with a trip to visit waterfalls in North Alabama.  Hopefully, the water levels will be up and some good pictures can be taken.

I thought I would change the look of the blog a little bit and hopefully it will be a little easier to read.  I need a little change from time to time myself.  I do not want things to get stale.  I know people who have to eat the same thing everyday.  I think a little variety is good for a person.

I hope this is the last boring post before I get back to the sport of backpacking.  Bear with me as I get back to the right mindset.

It's A New Year

Good morning from the frozen tundra of Birmingham, Alabama.  I have totally recovered from my latest trip to Big Bend and any bad memories have been washed aside and I can only recall the good ones.  The questions that have been asked by my throng of readers (4 or 5) is am I going back to Big Bend next year and am I going to continue my blog.  The answer to both questions is a resounding YES.

That news may be applauded or booed but only time will tell.  As I have said before these writings are really for my own therapy but if it brings pleasure to someone else then I am very happy.

I am dubbing the last few months as "S*** Happens".  Never in my life have I been through a period of time where everything is breaking down in some form or another.  I am not talking human beings here but mechanical objects that I own.  Cars, air conditioners, trucks, hot water heaters, laptops........it is driving me crazy.  I hope that this condition does not pour over into my physical or mental well-being.

The weather in Birmingham since I have returned from my trip to the badlands has been atrocious.  Cold weather, sleet, some snow and generally gloomy conditions have created a morose feeling within me.  I need to shake this because I have not worked out since I got back.  I need to get back into the swing of routine again.  I have never really been spontaneous so the routine must begin.  I did make a resolution to become more organized in all aspects of my life.  You will notice I say more organized rather than organized.  For what ever reason I have always been very unorganized for most of my life.  The times that I have tried to become truly organized has created an obsession which could not be sustained.  I am spending an hour a day of everyday to work on my organizational issues.  I hope that this will contain my obsession tendencies and be sustainable.

I will not go back onto the trail until February.  I will either head up to the Sipsey or go out on the Pinhoti Trail.  I have not decided which but I know that Curbie will be pleased.  Until then I will hunker down in my office and try to keep warm.

Wes, Clay and Bill In Big Bend National Park

My son Wes, nephew Clay and I started our journey to Big Bend National Park on Friday, December 31 at 9:00 am.  Actually, it was really Clay and I as we drove to Baton Rouge to pick up Wes.  We stayed Friday night at my Mother's and were blessed with a bowl of Chicken and Sausage Gumbo which was fantastic.  We rose early on New Years morning and picked up Wes to begin our adventure.

Jack Wesley got up early to see his daddy and papaw off on the trip.  Wes was ready to go when we got there meaning he was really fired up to go.  Normally, Wes moves on island time but not this day.  The group was full of anticipation even though it would be Sunday before we actually got to hike.

Our route took us through Lafayette, Lake Charles, Beaumont, Houston, San Antonio, Del Rio and then Marathon, Texas where we would spend the night.  We were supposed to go to Fort Stockton, Texas to spend the first night but we made a fortunate wrong turn and wound up going down Highway 90 out of San Antonio through Del Rio.  What beautiful country that turned out to be.  Mesas, mountains, Lake Amistad, deer, javalena and other sights were seen all along the route.  We arrived in Marathon, Texas around 7 pm.  We stayed at the Marathon Motel in one of the all time small rooms.  With a roll away bed we did not have enough room to even open the bathroom door so if we had the urge then we had to refold up the roll away.  After a late dinner of Mexican food we called it a night.

We awoke early and left Marathon around 6 am.  We arrived in the park around 7:15 and made a water cache in the desert at Homer Wilson Ranch House then proceeded to Panther Junction Ranger Station.  The personnel at the ranger station were very helpful and courteous.  I was able to obtain a senior pass for free admission to all national parks for life.  This was a great value for $10 and you can only get it at a national park.  We obtained our backcountry permit and we were off to the basin to begin our trip.

After Wes required us all to have a late breakfast in the lodge we went to the car, put our packs on and began our trip up the Pinnacles trail, East Rim Trail and finally our first destination of the Southeast Rim and campsite SE3.  The route up was a little harder from a cardio standpoint than I thought it was going to be.  I had not done that hike in many years and had forgotten how tiring it could be.  We were carrying 6 liters of water a piece and full food load so we were as heavy as we would be for the whole trip.  Once we cleared the saddle and into the mountains I really felt the trip had begun.  After arriving at the campsite we got everything set up and then visited the southeast rim for some great sightseeing and sunset watching.

Clay and I used hammocks to sleep that night and Wes used his tent.  It was a very cold and windy night and the hammocks while very comfortable proved to be a little chilly.  Clay did not have a tarp to cut the wind so he was especially cold.  My hammock and tarp worked well but I still got a little chilled during the night.  I am going to invest in an under-quilt at some time in the near future.

We arose to a beautiful morning and went to see the rim and a great sunrise.  After a leisurely breakfast and coffee we headed over to Southwest Rim campsite 4 for another day and night in the Chisos.  Clay and Wes had never been to Emory Peak so they headed to see the sights while I got camp set up and spent some quiet time looking out from the Southwest Rim and visiting with some other hikers as they made their way through.  Upon returning from Emory we finished a wonderful day with a great sunset from the Southwest Rim.

We had a deer in our campsite that night as we were getting ready for bed.   The deer are not tame in  the mountains but they have become accustomed to people.  I am sure this large doe was just waiting to see what scraps could be acquired while we slept.  After a nice dinner of freeze dried food (sarcasm) we were off to bed.  We used tents that night but the wind either did not blow as much or we were more sheltered than the night before.  As a plug for Big Agnes, I used the air mattress and had a wonderful nights sleep.  This is something that rarely happens to me with my arthritic shoulder but I was more than pleased with the result.

The next morning Wes and Clay wanted to see the sunrise so they headed to the rim.

We were off and running early that morning headed down the mountain through Blue Creek Canyon and the Homer Wilson Ranch House.  We were low on water but had enough to make the trek.  The hike down the canyon was beautiful.  Unfortunately Wes began to have some trouble with his feet.  When we arrived at the ranch house we had finished the last of our water.  It was about 1:30 in the afternoon and the temperature was in the middle 70's.  Clay and I went and retrieved our water cache and returned to the ranch house.

I took a look at Wes's feet and was not pleased.  He had major blisters on both feet and I knew right away that he was in trouble.  The Dodson Trail is rocky, long and hot.  Wes was struggling just to get down Blue Creek with his bad feet.  I had to make a decision since we were at the point of no return place in our trip.  After consulting with Wes and Clay I felt it in the best interest of the group not to chance a bad experience for Wes.  He was very disappointed because he thought he had let down the group.  We assured Wes that it could happen to anyone and not to feel guilty.

I walked to the road from the desert and was able to hitch a ride with a couple from New Mexico.  At first the husband was not sure what to think of me but his wife assured him that I would not rob or kill them.  I got in the back of their pickup truck and made the 20 mile ride to the basin.  After making a change in our backcountry permit I returned to the ranch house and retrieved the boys.

We spent the night at Grapevine Hills and got ready to leave the park the next morning.   As I got into the car to start the return trip--dead battery.  They boys had been playing music with their ipod and left the door to the truck open and down went the battery.  Luckily we had cell service and raised the ranger station.  About 45 minutes later a ranger arrived on the scene and we got a jump.  What a relief that was.

We were able to do some sightseeing that day and headed out of the park that afternoon.  We arrived in Baton Rouge on Thursday and Birmingham on Friday.  Then we watched LSU beat Texas A & M in the Cotton Bowl.  Geaux Tigers.

To view picutres of the trip go to the following link.
http://picasaweb.google.com/williamw.keith/BigBend2011WithWesAndClay?authkey=Gv1sRgCP7675rfhPv-7gE#

We really had a great time on this hike.  I was able to spend a lot of quality time with my son and really get to know my nephew.  Wes and Clay really bonded during this trip and I am sure they will be life long friends.  Next year I will make a return trip and hopefully it will last longer but you never know what to expect from Big Bend National Park.  If you love the outdoors or backpacking this is one great place to see and experience.

Get Away Day

"The best laid plans of mice and men often go askew", as the poet Robert Burns said. One of my young whippersnappers contracted strep throat from his child and is in bed with a high fever. I feel for him and hope he gets well soon. Clay and I will persevere and continue on our odyssey to the badlands of Southwest Texas.

Everything is packed and ready to go. All to be done now is load the gear in the truck, do a little repair work on the radiator and then head to Baton Rouge to pick up Wes in the morning. We will leave Baton Rouge around 6 am on Saturday morning to travel to Ft. Stockton, Texas and spend the night. I would have preferred to go to Marathon, Texas but all the rooms are booked in the reasonable hotels. The Gage Hotel is very nice but I am in a camping mode and that is luxury.

All the families have received agendas and emergency phone numbers to contact us on the trip. I hope that no one will need to do so.

I told Karen a couple of nights ago that when I get back from one of these trips that I become intolerable for wanting to relate the details of my trip. Big Bend in the back-country is a religious experience and re-focuses your attention to the smaller things in life. I have been known to look at plans for cabins after one of my trips. It is always about getting back to the basics.

Here is to a great trip and I hope the young whippersnappers enjoy themselves and look after the old geezer.

My log book of my first trip to Big Bend

Karen found my log book of my first trip to Big Bend National Park from back in the mid-80's. I want to be able to compare this log book to the one I will be keeping on this trip. The biggest difference will be that I will adding pictures to the new one.

"Saturday night--January 2. Arrived ranger station at 10 p.m. Called Hope and told her I loved her. We drove to the road near Blue Creek ranch house. It was a beautiful full moon--We hiked about 3/4 of a mile (a little exaggeration) and hid 2 two gallon water bottles. The coyotes were howling in the distance. It was incredibly beautiful in the moonlight. It reminded me of an old western movie. We then went to the basin campground. Ed (McGuire) slept outside while Lane (Ed's son) and I slept in the tent. The temperature was in the mid 20's. My new down parka (Wes is taking it on this trip) works like a charm. I'm sitting on the tailgate of the truck and I am warm as toast. Getting ready to go to bed. I will write more tomorrow."

"Sunday morning--7 am---Got up and made breakfast-sausage biscuit and coffee--temp is 21 degrees. The sun is coming up and shining on the mountains--I'm warm---Sleeping bag was very warm. Thinking about you Baby. "Love You"

Lunch 1 pm. 1/3 of the way to Elephant Tusk--I am a screw up--Pack is not done right--will fix tonight. Beautiful country. Had tea for lunch, a cookie and beef jerky. We have stopped in a draw and temps feel warm but it is only about 40 degrees. Getting ready to go and I will see you at the campsite with a sore back."

"6:30 pm---Thinking about you--we are on the backside of Elephant Tusk. It was a very long hike. My back and shoulders are very sore, but I will be better in the morning. You will not believe what just happened. A full moon just rose over the mountains and it is quite spectacular. We ate supper and I had hot chocolate, beef stew and a piece of Hershey bar. It was really very good. All the tents are pitched and in ship shape. We will settle in soon and get some sleep. I hope you sleep well and I love you very much."

"6:20 Monday night--camped at the trail head of Dodson Trail and Juniper Springs Trail. Yesterday was a walk in the park compared to today. Up and down mountain ridges until I thought I would die & then just a mere 6 mile hike cross country. We started at Elephant Tusk, walked to Tortuga Mountain, hit the Fresno Creek, then Dodson Trail and then to the campsite. I am so tired I am almost incoherent. I am going to eat and then finish. Thinking about you right now"

"7:20 pm just finished supper--rice and beef, hot chocolate. It was good. We are watching stars tonight but I am too tire to get interested. I am fixing to go to bed."

"Tuesday night 7:20 pm---I am on the South Rim-It was the most strenuous exercises I have ever done. I really did not think I was going to make it. We hiked 9 miles from the Dodson/Juniper Springs trail head almost all uphill. At the Juniper Spring some javalena's tried to chase us off. From there it was 5 miles almost straight up. I am very tired. Last night the temp was 28 degrees--Tonight up on the rim it will be much colder. The wind is blowing very hard---Ed says we may have the worst behind us. I hope he is right. Love you, miss you and the kids."

"6:30 pm Thursday---Everything did not go as planned. We left the east rim and traveled to the South Rim down Blue Creek Springs trail to the Ranch House. But it took us to 2:oo pm and we did not have enough water from the trip so we dehydrated. Our water cache was still there so we filled up on water and decided to stay there rather than try to make it to Fresno Creek. Lane sprained his ankle on the trail so we are worried about him. I taped his ankle with the ace bandage and he says it feels better. I am really starting to enjoy this. I am losing weight and getting in better shape. Love You"

"7:05 Thursday night: Camped somewhere in a deep canyon on Fresno Creek. (Unreal day!!!) Hiked from ranch house down Dodson Trail to Elephant Tusk Trail, crossed Fresno Creek and took the Creek route. No one hardly ever does this and I found out why. The creek goes into a deep canyon that once you go down into it you cannot come back up. There were huge plunge pools-a couple of which were over my head. Ed had to jump down into the pool and swim out but Lane and I were able to act like flies and cling to the rock walls and get around them until I slipped and fell into the pool feet first. Luckily it was only up to my thighs so I did not get completely wet but it was cold. I gave Ed some dry clothes because he was about to go into hypothermia. I was scared but thrilled at the same time. It was very dangerous but we committed to go so we could not turn around. We are now camped on a small cliff overlooking the creek and it is very beautiful. The creek is gurgling and the water is crystal clear. It is obvious we will not get back to the truck until the middle of the afternoon. Our best estimate is that we have got at least 6 miles to do tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing you and the kids-Love you-call you tomorrow."

What I remember most about that trip was that I did not have an appreciation for the beauty of the place, nor have the respect of how hard a trip like this was. I have learned over the years to soak up the beauty and to give the park all the respect it deserves. I will be interested as how the young whippersnappers feel about the place after their trip.